From this place, we begin our journey along the Čiurlionis Road. Here, where on the 22nd of September, 1875, Mikalojus Konstantinas Čiurlionis was born and spent the first years of his life.

To Old Varėna, which at that time was simply called Varėna, the future parents of Čiurlionis, Adelė and Konstantinas, moved in 1874, shortly after their marriage in the Liškiava church. Here, Konstantinas Čiurlionis received work as an organist and a place to live. The Čiurlionis family lived in Varėna for only a short time and, after a few years, moved to Druskininkai.

The town of Varėna after the First World War (1920) © Kazys Lukšys, miestai.net

Before you stands the modern architectural Church of St Michael the Archangel – the third Catholic church in Old Varėna. The first one, built in 1776 at the initiative of the district governor Mykolas Bžostovskis, was burned down in 1915 as the Russian army retreated from the Germans, together with its rich archive. Through the initiative of the newly appointed priest Leonas Markuckis, the church was rebuilt in 1921, but it again burned down in 1944.

At the beginning of the national revival, the idea of rebuilding the church began to be mentioned more and more often. In 1989, a church construction committee was formed, which, according to the regulations of the time, submitted a request to the Central Committee in Moscow to build the church. Although few expected a positive response, it was granted! It was decided to build a grand 35-metre-long and equally high sanctuary. The parish priest, Pranciškus Čivilis, who oversaw the construction, had a clear vision – the new church must reflect the spirit of the art of Čiurlionis, who was born and spent his early childhood here.

Construction began in 1991, and it was completed and consecrated on the 8th of November, 1994. The church’s architects were Brunonas Bakaitis and Gediminas Baravykas. The building’s architecture is based on the rhythms and forms typical of Čiurlionis’s paintings. The most distinctive element is the open belfry standing in front of the church, with a bell announcing spring, reminiscent of Čiurlionis’s painting "Spring Motif". The bell itself is special too – a gift from the dioceses of Magdeburg (Germany) and Voronezh (Russia).

Before entering the church interior, let us walk around the churchyard, where there are two significant sculptures.

Passing by the belfry, we turn left along the star path arranged by the parish priest, leading towards the sculpture built in 2021, which marks the approximate birthplace of Mikalojus Konstantinas Čiurlionis.

The exact birthplace of M. K. Čiurlionis in Old Varėna was long unknown. According to historian Laima Vileikienė, who analysed historical and iconographic documents about M. K. Čiurlionis’s place of residence, “the church servants lived in the parish house next to the church.” In 2017, it became possible to determine the birthplace of Čiurlionis more precisely, locating it in the buildings near the church based on a 19th-century map brought from St Petersburg, where the outlines of the first church and five nearby buildings can be clearly seen. In one of these lived the church organist Konstantinas Čiurlionis with his family.

When the Varėna District Municipality Administration announced a competition to commemorate the birthplace of M. K. Čiurlionis, the winning project was created by sculptor Gediminas Piekuras and architect Gintaras Čaikauskas: a miniature church and five houses, in one of which shines the light of the newborn Čiurlionis. As the art historian Aušra Česnulevičienė writes, the work was inspired by the well-known painting "The Tale of Kings", in which two kings are depicted holding in their palms a small village illuminated by the sun.

As you continue walking around the churchyard, note also the sculpture created in 2011 by Mantas Paulauskas, commemorating the baptism of Čiurlionis. It stands near the marked foundations of the old church. The baptism is confirmed by the surviving church books. It is believed that Mikalojus received his name either because of the church’s dedication or the approaching feast of St Michael. The monument, erected through the care of the Kaišiadorys Diocese and other supporters, is a sky-piercing stone monolith with an inscription and a small cloud. “I did not want to quote Čiurlionis’s works or paintings, but his thoughts floated among the clouds,” says the sculptor.

Let us now enter the church interior. Look at the stained glass windows created by the artist Vytautas Švarlis, which also commemorate Čiurlionis’s baptism. The organ brought from Southern England is impressive as well. Of course, these are not the same organs that Čiurlionis’s father once played, but we can imagine how, long ago, in this place, in the old church, the sounds of the organ played by Konstantinas echoed, heard by their firstborn, Mikalojus.

Having become acquainted with the beginnings of Čiurlionis’s life, we shall continue along his path, discovering the influence and legacy that this creator has left to this very day.

VISITING INFORMATION

❯ Church doors are open*:

Mon–Fri: 6 p.m. – 8 p.m.

Sun: 11 a.m. – 1 p.m.

*Before your visit, we recommend checking the visiting conditions on the church’s website ↗.

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Prepared based on sources:

ciurlioniokelias.lt, ciurlionis.eu, visitvarena.lt, bernardinai.lt, Aušra Česnulevičienė, Following the Paths of the Čiurlionis Family. Steps through Dzūkija (“Vox altera”, 2025)

St. Michael the Archangel Church and the birthplace of Čiurlionis

St. Michael the Archangel Church and the birthplace of Čiurlionis

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